Crosses on the Pass — photo 1Pumps in the shade.Crosses on the Pass — photo 14Crosses on the Pass — photo 24Crosses on the Pass — photo 30

Crosses on the Pass

SEP 2024A mountain pass at midday — part 2 of 4

Old pumps under a pointed peak, burros on the shoulder, and a hilltop where strangers have been leaving crosses for years.

Before the climb, one last stop: a stone filling station under a pointed peak, old pumps lined up in the shade as if the next car to pull in might still be a 1950s sedan.

Crosses on the Pass — photo 2
Pumps in the shade.
Pumps in the shade.
Crosses on the Pass — photo 4
Crosses on the Pass — photo 5
Crosses on the Pass — photo 6

Then the road began to twist. Burros wandered the shoulder, unbothered by anything with an engine, and the land fell away in folds of red rock and dry brush.

Right of way.
Right of way.
Crosses on the Pass — photo 8
Crosses on the Pass — photo 9
Left on the rocks.
Left on the rocks.
Crosses on the Pass — photo 11
Stone on stone.
Stone on stone.
Crosses on the Pass — photo 13
Crosses on the Pass — photo 14

Near the top of the pass, people have been leaving crosses for years — wood, metal, chain, stones piled on stones. Some are for loved ones, some for animals, some for reasons only the person who placed them knows.

Crosses on the Pass — photo 15
Crosses on the Pass — photo 16

Travellers climbed the last bit of trail to the lookout and stood there without saying much. From up there the old road looks like a thread someone dropped across the mountains.

Crosses on the Pass — photo 17
Crosses on the Pass — photo 18
Crosses on the Pass — photo 19
Above the switchbacks.
Above the switchbacks.
Crosses on the Pass — photo 21
Crosses on the Pass — photo 22
Crosses on the Pass — photo 23
Crosses on the Pass — photo 24

Some of the stones carry names and years painted in white, a few words of love beneath them. Read them and the hillside stops being scenery.

Crosses on the Pass — photo 25
Crosses on the Pass — photo 26

Flowers, faded ribbons, small offerings tucked between the rocks. A place built by strangers, one quiet gesture at a time.

Crosses on the Pass — photo 27
Crosses on the Pass — photo 28
Pay the barrel.
Pay the barrel.
Crosses on the Pass — photo 30

We stayed a while without talking, then drove on, slower than before. On the other side of the pass, a town full of burros was waiting.

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