Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 1Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 9Parked for good.Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 35Chrome and rust.

Phone Booths and Painted Vans

SEP 2024The old highway, late September — part 1 of 4

A payphone still waiting for a call, a gas globe behind glass, and a desert ranch where painted vans sit in the dirt like they drove out of a dream.

We left before the heat arrived, following the old highway west with no plan beyond the next diner. The first miles were all small signs of a long road: a Joshua tree standing guard, a gas globe behind glass, a payphone still waiting for someone to call.

Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 2
A gas globe behind glass.
A gas globe behind glass.
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 4
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 5

Inside the visitor centre, the woman at the counter smiled like she had been waiting all morning for someone to ask about the road.

Still waiting for a call.
Still waiting for a call.
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 7
A gate made of a road sign.
A gate made of a road sign.
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 9
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 10
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 11
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 12
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 13
A painted king on the wall.
A painted king on the wall.
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 15
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 16
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 17
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 18

The next town was built for people passing through: arrow-shaped signs, a diner painted mint and pink, an old police cruiser parked out front for good, and a classic sedan waiting under a giant margarita glass.

Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 19
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 20
Parked for good.
Parked for good.
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 22
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 23

Further on, the towns thinned out and the colours changed — teal sky, rust-red earth, and buildings patched so many times they were mostly memory.

Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 24
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 25
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 26
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 27
Paper target, desert backdrop.
Paper target, desert backdrop.
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 29

Out at a desert range, a man in ear defenders checked his gear, took his time, and squeezed off a few careful rounds at a paper target. Afterwards he smiled, waved us over and pointed the way: out past the flags, where a ranch had turned a stretch of desert into an open-air gallery.

Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 30
Flags over the desert.
Flags over the desert.
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 32
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 33
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 34
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 35
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 36

Painted vans sat in the dirt as if they had driven straight out of a dream and decided to stay. Every panel was covered — suns, flowers, eyes, motorcycles — faded by the sun but still loud.

Left where it stopped.
Left where it stopped.
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 38
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 39
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 40
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 41
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 42

Motorcycles rested against barrels and yucca, a saloon counter waited in the shade, and an old fuel can kept watch over nothing in particular.

Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 43
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 44
Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 45

At the edge of it all stood a tiny white chapel with a cross on the roof. Nobody inside. Just the door, the desert, and enough quiet to hear the wind move through the scrub.

Phone Booths and Painted Vans — photo 46
Chrome and rust.
Chrome and rust.

The heat was rising, the mountains were getting closer, and the road ahead was starting to climb. One day on the old road — and this was only the morning.

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